South Africa: Mandela's 'legacy' kept alive with Madiba shirts- Video
In his busy workshop filled with fabric and sewing machines, Sonwabile Ndamase takes pride in the lasting impact of the Madiba shirts he designed for Nelson Mandela thirty years ago.
These shirts, worn untucked and without a jacket, remain popular among South African politicians, continuing to make a statement a decade after Mandela's passing.
Known affectionately as Madiba in South Africa, the clan name of Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela, these shirts symbolize more than just clothing, they represent a commitment to Mandela's principles and legacy.
"Anybody who wants to live a Mandela legacy or who wants to live Mandela ethos in life, guess what they are doing? They will go and pick up Madiba shirts. The similar thing that is done by the politicians," Ndamase said.
Ndamase, a self-taught designer, has counted among his clients South Africa's current president, Cyril Ramaphosa, and former presidents Thabo Mbeki and Jacob Zuma. Ministers, government officials, and local politicians regularly commission his creations. Even international figures like former US President Bill Clinton and boxing legend Mike Tyson have been seen in Madiba shirts.
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"It has moved now from one generation to another. I've taught quite a number of young and upcoming designers about the Madiba shirt," he added.
Ndamase vividly remembers the moment when Winnie Mandela contacted him shortly after Nelson Mandela's release from prison in 1990. Mandela, who had spent 27 years behind bars for his anti-apartheid activism, needed clothing suitable for addressing corporate leaders and the general public without the formality of a tie.
"It must be something that, when he's with other statesmen, he can be identified, among other statemen, without the tie," Ndamase recalled.
Meeting Mandela at his home in Johannesburg's Soweto, Ndamase crafted a unique style: loose-fitting silk shirts adorned with bold, oriental-inspired patterns. These shirts, available in deep colours like burgundy and royal blue or earthy tones depicting natural elements, became synonymous with Mandela's distinctive fashion sense and non-conformist style.
Now 64 years old, Ndamase is passing on his expertise to a new generation of designers. In September, he will travel to New York to host a masterclass for young designers and present his Vukani brand's latest collection at an event celebrating 30 years of democracy in South Africa.
Born in Mdantsane on South Africa's southeastern coast, Ndamase continues to find fulfilment in his Johannesburg workshop, where each stitch he sews contributes to his lifelong dedication to preserving Mandela's legacy. "It's a dream come true, he said. It's a legacy collection."